Vibrant, crumbling, chaotic, and fashionable, the Eternal City transcends categories. Rome stands alone with its quirky collection of old and new, beautiful and decrepit - motorini speeding around the Colosseum, bright oranges ripening on trees, Gucci-clad jet setters cutting into pizzas at family-run trattorias, skinny cats darting through the shadows of once-grand ruins. Echoing a rich, long history and teeming with artistic tradition, always moving forward even as it remains happily stuck in the past, Rome is, justifiably, one of the world's capitals. Come for classic education and sunshine, to pray in St. Peter's Basilica or indulge as the Romans do in any of the city's many decadent pleasures - impossibly creamy gelato, extra-strength espresso, smooth red wine, or for a real splurge, a designer accessory of choice made from supple chocolate-brown leather.
Paying a visit to the Colosseum is such a predictable move that travelers are often surprised by how intriguing the ancient amphitheatre really is. The grandeur is best appreciated with an organized tour - the guys standing around in breastplates, helmets, and leather sandals can point travelers in the right direction. Listen up to as the guide reviews the historical background and shares interesting little vignettes about the brave fighters, the passionate crowds, the wacky sideshows. Make sure to bring plenty of film: after the formal tour is over, visitors can wander around certain sections of the interior, seeing the broken-off rocks up close, and take photos to impress their pals back home who have seen repeat performances of Russell Crowe's fictionalized turn as an ancient gladiator. Combination tickets permit entrance to a host of other ancient sites like the Baths of Caracalla, Palatine Hill, and the Catacombs.
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Originally constructed in 1725 to connect the Spanish Embassy with the Holy See, this famous staircase in Piazza di Spagna consists of 138 steps leading up to the church of Trinità dei Monti. Climb to the top to look down at the fashionable scene below - the Piazza di Spagna is situated in the center of Rome's most upscale shopping district - then head back down again to admire the Baroque "Fountain of the Boat" and the house where the poet John Keats was living up until his death until 1821. A much larger and flashier Baroque fountain, the must-see Trevi with its stunning contrast of white statues and aquamarine water, is a short walk away. Visitors won't miss it: the fountain is striking and highly recognizable from well-known scenes in Roman Holiday and Fellini's La Dolce Vita. Throwing a coin over one's left shoulder, so they say, promises a return to the city.
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This huge, marvelous temple, which was originally commissioned by Marcus Agrippa in 27 B.C. with the dome later built by Hadrian, often makes first-time visitors' jaws drop as they step through the doorway. Yes, the structure is architecturally impressive from the outside, dominating the Piazza della Rotonda, but from inside, the dome is truly breathtaking. The only light that shines through the still-functional church comes through the hole in the ceiling. Standing, dwarfed, in the center of the temple and watching clouds pass over through the opening is unforgettable. Travelers who can tear their eyes away from the sight can check out the burial sites of such important Italians as Raphael and King Vittorio Emanuele I.
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Today, the political and religious center of the grand, glorious, ancient Roman Empire is a sprawling space filled with stone columns, arches, and other assorted crumbling ruins. It doesn't cost a single centissimo to explore the grounds, but most visitors won't know what they're looking at, or at any rate, won't be able to properly appreciate the Forum's various sections, without an audio guide. Rent one at the entrance and take some time to explore the Temple of Caesar, the Arch of Titus, the graceful statues of the Vestal Virgins, and a wealth of fascinating monuments, relief sculptures, and basilicas that pay tribute to the dramatic politics and general grandeur of ancient Rome. Beat the crowds, and earn better photo opportunities, by making the Forum the first stop in the morning.
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The smallest state in the world is also the seat of one of the world's most powerful religious orders. The Holy Roman Catholic Church, presided over by the Pope, calls this glittering space of just over 100 acres home. The historical, cultural, political, and artistic attractions in this confined area are simply dazzling regardless of the religious preferences of visitors. The imposing St. Peter's Basilica, which contains Michelangelo's Pietà and Bernini's baldacchino, among countless other treasures, is a full afternoon's destination in itself. The Vatican Museums are a whole other story: the Sistine Chapel is just one of many masterpieces. Famous works by Caravaggio, da Vinci, Titian, Raphael, Giotto, and a number of other Italian legends keep the lines wrapped around the corner at the museum entrance.
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Rome's a Catholic city, and as such, the locals take their holidays seriously. No matter the season, find out ahead of time what's being celebrated in the Eternal City. Fireworks, flowers, and plenty of wine - no one should miss out on Roman-style festivities. Over the Christmas and New Years holidays, for example, Piazza Navona turns into a colorful marketplace filled with booths selling candy, hot chocolate, and intricate little Befana witch dolls. At Easter, the Pope gives an elaborate Mass in the square in front of St. Peter's Basilica that's open to the public; summertime brings a number of free concerts by big-name artists to various scenic spots in the city from Piazza del Popolo to the Colosseum exterior. In such a huge city, those who haven't done their homework could miss out on some seriously good times. Romans love parties - and as they say, when in Rome...
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Sabatini occupies a prime spot on Trastevere's pretty central piazza. The views of the illuminated church and the shadowy square are almost enough to distract diners from the steaming plates of spaghetti and shrimp placed in front of them. Dip a chunk of freshly baked bread in olive oil and make a toast with the delicious house wine while waiting for the main course at this reliable, well-appointed restaurant.
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Camponeschi boasts a highly coveted spot on the Piazza Farnese, but it's the consistently high quality of innovative dishes like lobster with black truffles that keeps seafood lovers coming back. The wine list is extensive, the shrimp is freshly caught, and the views of Romans on their evening passeggiata are unbeatable.
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Taverna Trilussa would hardly be called stylish, but the delicious dinners, served in the same beat-up old frying pans in which they were cooked, are unforgettable. Try the flavorful, one-of-a-kind Bucatini alla Griscia or one of the classic Roman sauces like carbonara or amatriciana; hip travelers unimpressed by the slightly outdated interior design can ask for an outdoor table along a brick wall covered by climbing ivy.
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La Taverna del Ghetto Kosher is famous on the block for a classic kosher fried fish called baccalla. The homemade pasta washed down, of course, with kosher wine, is also fit for a Jewish feast in a historic setting nearby the massive Portico d'Ottavia.
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Alberto Ciarla offers a break from all the pizza and pasta, specializing in seafood dishes like fresh filet of sea bass with almonds alongside more classic Roman dishes. Shellfish and clams are prepared according to age-old recipes in a dramatically lit space that fuses contemporary chic with antique appeal. Visitors must reserve ahead of time for the opportunity to pay dearly for their succulent fish.
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Da Giggetto serves fettuccine with deep-friend artichokes, zucchini flowers, and sweet Jewish desserts in a warm, family-friendly space inside a restored inn. Choose seating in any of the small, cozy rooms that give the pleasing impression of dining in someone's home instead of a well-known restaurant.
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La Rosetta's expertise is evident in the tasty frutti di mare seafood salad, a common starter dish in Rome that's not as appealing in less capable hands. Dine on grilled sole with rock salt or splurge on fish selections from the French coast at this tried-and-true restaurant.
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Sora Margherita is sparely furnished and unimpressive to look at - the scrumptious Roman-Jewish dishes are the one and only reason to come by. And what a reason it is, from steaming chickpea soup to osso buco and peppery tonnarelli, at this hole-in-the-wall trattoria.
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Quinzi & Gabrieli rules the Roman seafood scene with its signature swordfish carpaccio and decadent spaghetti with lobster. The prices are high and the service can be on the slow side, but the exquisite dishes and lovely setting, complete with an outdoor terrace in warmer weather, make the dinner sojourn absolutely worth it.
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Even a visitor who's just stopping into one Roman church to check out a Caravaggio needs to know some basic etiquette so as not to offend any of the priests, nuns, patrons, or locals (who, regardless of religious persuasion, always know how to behave.) First of all, men and women alike need to dress appropriately even for a quick stop in a church - meaning no hats and not too much bare skin. Ideally, women's shoulders and knees should be covered, though it's not enforced everywhere. Carrying a light cardigan to throw over one's shoulders should avert any dress code snags (and keep ladies' bare arms snug in the cold church interiors.) Second, never interrupt a worship service. Visitors may think themselves inconspicuous as they creep up a side aisle hoping to catch a glimpse of a piece of artwork in the front, but they're not, and the disruption is considered rude. Check out the hours of Mass on the door and plan church sightseeing accordingly.
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The Roma, or "Gypsies" as they're more commonly called, are a real presence in the Italian capital. The cultural group as a whole is fascinating, with a well-developed art and handicraft tradition; unfortunately, the public face of the Roma often shown to travelers is less pleasant. Everywhere in the city, outdoor diners and tourists are plagued by beggar children and pickpockets, many whom have been sent out by a parent (look off in the distance, a woman in flowing clothes, usually holding a baby, is likely watching over her panhandling brood.) These children certainly deserve kindness and even sympathy, though it's not necessary to give them any money. Visitors should be watchful of their purses, wallets, cameras, or any other valuables when Roma children are lurking about. That cute four year old boy, given the chance, could be taking off with someone's cash and credit cards.
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Merging 1950s glamour and contemporary cool, this elegant and always-trendy cocktail bar offers espresso, wine, and martinis to Rome's beautiful people and a handful of in-the-know travelers. Choose from the appealing dark wood interior or one of the sun-dappled outdoor tables for optimal see-and-be-seen opportunities.
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This beloved Roman-style enoteca boasts a remarkable list of local wines by the bottle or glass in a convivial atmosphere where guests share cozy tables. The small plates of tasty cheese and soft bread are well-paired with the red wine in this popular spot on a small square near Piazza Navona.
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Jazz, rock, hip-hop, tango, Latin music - this spacious nightclub has a little bit of everything in its various rooms. Drinks from margaritas to beer are easily acquired from the various well-stocked bars throughout the club, and live music acts are on the schedule many nights of the week. Alpheus is relatively relaxed and not so selective that travelers will be left stranded outside.
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Rome's Jewish quarter is an underappreciated gem that's especially magical when the sun has gone down. Come down for dinner at one of the authentic Jewish restaurants, then roam the narrow, winding streets of this eerily quiet antique neighborhood. Stroll through the square of Largo 16 Ottobre 1943, past the Teatro Marcello and the Portico d'Ottavia ruins, and end up at a lovely landmark, a fountain featuring four boys holding Bernini-sculpted turtles, in the quarter's lively Piazza Mattei. Stop in for a drink at the adjacent cocktail bar or stop for a kosher dessert at Ghetto Bakery to complete an off-the-beaten path stroll through one of Rome's calmest, prettiest downtown neighborhoods.
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Wacky, avant-garde, lively, and right downtown in the middle of the historic center is this intimate nightclub and cocktail bar. The colorful paintings covering the walls create an artistic ambience while the powerful mixed drinks and DJs on turn tables get the diverse crowd on their feet - the fabulous, bizarrely decorated bathrooms aren't to be missed.
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