Antique but edgy, regal but backpacker-friendly, the city of Prague is characterized by contradictions. Horsedrawn carriages parade through Old Town Square as local university students with blue mohawks crowd contemporary art galleries; art historians explore the formal castle grounds while a nearby beer garden fills with revelers who drink from tall, frosted mugs and look out over the stone statues of the Charles Bridge. Milan Kundera wrote about it, Communism changed it, and curious travelers made it the youthful European destination of recent years. Grand, budget-friendly, alive and ever-evolving, the Bohemian capital's magic must be experienced for oneself.
Spanning 516 meters across the Vltava River, the pedestrians-only Charles Bridge is a beautiful historic walkway that's well-traveled during the day. Impromptu musical performances entertain the crowds and photographers sell their work; the spectacle on the cobblestone bridge almost distracts tourists from the Castle looming on the nearby hill. Twilight or sunrise strolls provide peace and quiet, not to mention unforgettable views of the city's spires silhouetted against the colored sky. Take a closer look at some of the thirty Baroque-style statues of saints lining the bridge and the enormous gothic towers on either end.
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Glittering on the hill behind the Charles Bridge, the Castle is the largest of its kind in Europe. While taking a moment to catch their breath after the steep walk up to the entrance, visitors often find themselves overwhelmed by the scale of the sprawling complex. Reading up on the Castle's offerings ahead of time is the best way to figure out which attractions are of particular interest. Everyone should see the towering St. Vitus Cathedral, featuring a stained glass window by Alphonse Mucha, and the formal changing of the guard. The Paradise Garden, the art collections in the Riding School, the Golden Lane, St. George's Basilica, among others, are worth stops; buy whichever combination ticket allows entrance into the desired sites. Don't miss the breathtaking view over the city from the ramparts along the edge of the castle wall.
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Prague's two major squares, the charming Old Town and the massive Wenceslas, serve rather different functions: the first is a largely pedestrians-only historical site featuring notable churches, while the latter is more of a commercial center, often jammed with traffic on the far end where the National Museum sits. But both squares are loaded with fascinating architecture, and they're only a few minutes' stroll apart. Start in Old Town, where the Astronomical Clock draws a crowd for a whimsical little mechanical show at the turn of the hour and the twin towers of Tyn Cathedral soar high above. Meander over to Wenceslas, where the street-level views leave something to be desired, but the colorful Art Nouveau architecture on the upper stories often causes visitors to stop and gawk - the best angles are from the parallel sidewalk across the street, safely out of the reach of honking cars and garbage trucks making their rounds on the perimeter of the square.
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An art nouveau master and the toast of Paris just before the turn of the century, Alphonse Mucha was a prolific artist whose dreamy posters have become a symbol of Prague. The small gallery honoring his work is a stone's throw from Wenceslas Square; spending an hour or two here is delightful because unlike some of Prague's larger but less important museums, the gallery is not overwhelming. Admire the posters in the front hall, usually grouped into four images that follow a theme - four women, for example, representing spring, summer, fall, and winter. Check out the Sarah Bernhardt posters that catapulted Mucha to fame, and his later, more political work that reflects the Czech Republic's rocky history. The informational video on his life and times, shown periodically in a small screening room in the back, is very well-done. Few visitors manage to get out of the gallery without dropping some cash on the lovely Mucha-inspired souvenirs- postcards, prints, stationery, even umbrellas- in the connected gift shop.
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This forested hill, rising up behind the Mala Strana quarter, was made famous in memorable scenes written by Milan Kundera and Franz Kafka. On weekends, it's a local favorite for picnics and dog-walking, but tourists flock there everyday for unsurpassed views of the city and the Castle. The Hunger Wall, built in 1360-62 under the order of Charles IV, the Eiffel Tower-inspired lookout tower, and the Hall of Mirrors at the top are all frequently visited attractions, though the most pleasant activity is simply walking around the wooded paths or having coffee or a glass of wine at the cafe located halfway up the hill. Most travelers catch the gondola up to the top; those looking to get their heart rates up can go by foot any time of the day. Don't miss the contemporary Communist memorial at the foot of the hill, near the gondola station.
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Prague is filled with green spaces where Czechs walk their dogs and fall asleep on park benches. But
right in the center of the city is a little-known (at least to travelers) picnic spot - one of the islands on the Vltava River. From Old Town, turn away from the Castle and walk along the river, then cross the footbridge to a pretty island with a well-manicured lawn, a stone wall bordering the water that's perfect for contemplation, even access to paddleboats during the warmer months. Bigger, more well-traveled islands with restaurants and beer-drinkers resting under trees are less pristine but worth a stop on a sunny day, as well.
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Pálffy Palác draws visitors into a Baroque palace and up into the gilded dining room for a feast of venison steaks and ostrich carpaccio. Lighter international fare, like couscous with sundried tomatoes and fish baked in coconut milk, are also on the menu at this elegant, upscale restaurant where everyone dresses for dinner.
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Kogo, a sleek downtown spot reminiscent of a contemporary restaurant in Milan, gets raves for the friendly service. The pesto risotto with shrimp, wood oven-cooked rosemary veal, and sweet lemon sorbet aren't too shabby, either. Outdoor seating is available in more temperate weather; the soft indoor lighting flatters the faces of diners year-round.
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Vojanov Dvur cooks up all the classics- roast pork, potato pancakes, fried cheese - in a traditional Czech setting. Push aside the thick velvet curtains and pull up a wooden chair for a hearty dinner after sightseeing; live accordion music completes the ambience as jolly families and groups of friends drink up pints of Pilsen.
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Le Bistrot de Marlene presents goat cheese, foie gras, snails, and roasted cod in a romantic setting with hard wood floors and white tablecloths. Outdoor tables set amidst illuminated trees are a world away from the Czech pubs so common in the area. Try the white chocolate cheesecake with raspberries for dessert.
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David Restaurant serves up flavorful Czech nouvelle dishes like duck leg confit with walnuts and yellow-fin steak tartare in a quiet, attractively decorated space near the American Embassy. The highly praised multi-course meals are a pricier option for travelers with hefty appetites. The extensive list of locally produced white wine is one of the best around.
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Gargoyle's serves French-Californian plates that are as creative and unusual as they are fresh. The five-course dinner is a luxurious overload of quail, steamed vegetables, and beef; the lunch specials also come highly recommended. Gourmet diners will adore this little gem.
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Ambiente is practically an institution in Old Town, a shoot-off of the original Brazilian-themed Ambiente restaurant. Descend into the candlelit wine cellar for dishes like fresh rigatoni with truffles or grilled calamari. This cool eatery is perfectly located just off Old Town Square; it's best to make reservations for dinner, especially when Italian tour groups are hanging around.
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Perle de Prague is a serious splurge, but the chance to enjoy a French feast in the cutting-edge Dancing Building with a view of the Vltava River doesn't come along too often. This exquisite seventh-floor restaurant, with curved white walls and silver that glistens on the tables, is an unforgettable place to savor creme brulée.
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Pizzeria Rugantino tosses pizzas topped with everything the heart could desire - parma ham, eggs, olives, tuna, artichokes, garlic, rosemary, radicchio, and spinach, to name a few. The central location works well for a quick, inexpensive lunch that's off the regular Czech path of meat and potatoes.
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This pint-sized jazz venue, located beneath a bagel shop run by the same ownership, offers an eclectic schedule of nightly live music in a warm, intimate environment. Well-loved local acts fill the room up quickly on weekends, while weekdays are more laid-back, perfect for small groups or couples to cozy up in the candlelight. Order off the wide-ranging cocktail list and enjoy the close proximity to multiple saxophones.
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English speakers won't have much trouble in this city, since most shops, restaurants, and hotels have multilingual staff and most young Czechs speak English fluently. It's wise, however, for travelers to learn a few Czech phrases before arrival and to note that many city signs pointing to various attractions are written in Czech. Old Town Square, for instance, is written Staroměstské náměstí, while Wenceslas Square is Václavské náměstí and Prague Castle is Pražský hrad. Be prepared to recognize these names on signs and to help out baffled travelers trying to find their way.
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Petty theft is a huge problem in Prague, as in other European cities. Watch bags and wallets in all tourist areas, especially on the crowded Charles Bridge, and do not hang around Wenceslas Square after the sun goes down. While this area is bright and bustling during the day, the area is a bit sleazy late at night, with men being pulled into questionable "clubs" and both locals and visitors complaining of theft. A major overhaul of the area is underway in the city government, but until conditions are improved, visitors should be careful.
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Right off Wenceslas Square, this downtown nightclub is a little rough around the edges. But the fun, unpretentious 80's nights bring in packs of young locals and travelers who dance along to early Madonna music videos on the theatre-size big screen. It's sweaty, cheap, and often comical, with drinks flowing freely all night. The venue also hosts concerts and benefits; check local listings to find out what's happening.
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Once a theatre, this warehouse-like dance club is a local favorite for house music, avant-garde video projections, and inexpensive drinks. The DJs bring in serious music lovers and not too many tourists. Enjoy the rules-free environment but don't come without a serious urge to get your groove on.
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One of Prague's many treasures is the lively theatre scene- but unlike in so many cities, where tickets to the opera cost more than the hotel room, Prague's offerings are unbelievably inexpensive. Whether visitors want to see a performance of Gisele, a holiday children's classic like The Nutcracker, or an impassioned opera such as Carmen, the rotating schedule of performances at historic downtown theatres like Narodni Divadlo are bound to please. Go early for champagne in the ornate parlor, then take a velvet seat in the gorgeous gilded theatre. Taking one's eyes off the rich paintings and glittering chandeliers long enough to see the curtain go up always proves a challenge.
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